Pakistan Profile

Pakistan Profile

Location, Population and Area

The Islamic Republic of Pakistan borders Iran on the west, India in the east. Afghanistan in the North-West, China in the north and the Arabian Sea on the south. Its total area is 803.950 Sq.Km with a population of 128 million. As a predominantly Muslim state, Pakistan emerged on the world map on 14 August 1947, as a result of the partition of the Indian Sub-continent following the withdrawal of the British. This year Pakistan celebrates its 50 years of Independence.

Pakistan as a tourist destination

Pakistan is a special interest destination. Its main attractions include adventure tourism in the Northern Areas, cultural and archaeological tourism as found in Taxila, Moenjodaro, Harrappa, and early Muslim and Mughal heritage of Multan, Lahore. For centuries, the ancient Silk Road remained the main trading route between the South and the Central Asia. After the construction of the Karakoram Highway (KKH) along the same alignment, which joins Pakistan with the Chinese Muslim autonomous region of Xinjang, the ancient trade link has been revived. The KKH has provided a great opportunity for international travelers to explore the unspoiled natural beauty, unique culture and traditions of the Northern Pakistan together with other Silk Route destinations like China, Kirgizstan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan.

Primary Attractions

Unique Mountains, Valleys and Glaciers: Northern areas of Pakistan, spread over 72,496 sq. Km. are fascinating as its southern region. Amidst towering snow-clad peaks with heights varying from 1000 m to over 8000 meter, the valleys of Gilgit, Hunza and Skardu recall Shangri-La. The cultural patterns in this region are as interesting as its topography. The people with typical costumes, folk dances, music and sports like polo and buzkashi provide the traveller an unforgettable experience. Nowhere in the world there is such a great concentration of high mountains, peaks, glaciers and passes except Pakistan. Of the 14 over 8000 peaks on earth, 04 occupy an amphitheatre at the head of Baltoro glacier in the Karakoram range. These are:

K2 (8611 m, world second highest)

Nanga Parbat (8126m)

Gasherbrum I (8068m)

Broad Peak (8047m)

Gasherbrum II (8035m)

Gasherbrum III (7952m)

Gasherbrum IV (7929m)

Masherbrum(7821m)

Rakaposhi (7788m)

Tirich Mir (7708m)

Istoro Nal (7403m)

Ultar Peak (7388m)

At the western most end of the Himalayas. In addition to that, there are 68 peaks over 7000m and hundreds which are over 6000 m. The Northern Pakistan has some of the longest glaciers outside Polar region;

Siachen (72 km)

Hispar (61 km)

Biafo (60 km)

Baltoro (60 km)

Batura (64 km)

Yenguta (35 km)

Chiantar (34 km)

Trich (29 km)

Atrak (28 km)

The lower Himalayan valleys of Swat, Kaghan and Chitral in the Hindukush range equally share the beauty and diverse culture of the Northern Pakistan.

See Also: Pakistan Mountains

See Also: Skardu - Siachen Glacier Pictures

Nature And Adventure

From the mighty stretches of the Karakoram's in the North to the vast alluvial delta of the Indus river in the South, Pakistan remains a land of high adventure and nature. Trekking, mountaineering, white water rafting, wild boar hunting, mountain and desert jeep safaris, camel and yak safaris, trout fishing and bird watching, are a few activities which entice the adventure and nature lovers to Pakistan.

Pakistan is endowed with a rich and varied flora and fauna. High Himalayas, Karakoram and the Hindukush ranges with their alpine meadows and permanent snow line, coniferous forests down the sub-mountain scrub, the vast Indus plain merging into the great desert, the coast line and wetlands, all offer a remarkably rich variety of Vegetation and associated wildlife including avifauna, both endemic and migratory. Ten of 18 mammalian orders are represented in Pakistan with species ranging from the world’s smallest surviving mammals, the Mediterranean Pigmy shrew, to the largest mammal ever known; the blue whale.

Indus Valley Civilization

The Indus Valley Civilization was at its peak from the 3rd till the middle of the 2nd millennium BC Discovered in 1922, Moenjodaro was once a metropolis of great importance, forming part of the Indus Valley Civilization together with Harrappa (discovered in 1923), Kot Diji and recent discovered in Mehr Garh (Baluchistan). Moenjodaro is considered as one of the most spectacular ancient cities of the world. It had mud and baked bricks’ buildings, an elaborate covered drainage system, a large state granary, a spacious pillared hall, a College of Priests, a palace and a citadel.

Harrappa

Another major city of the Indus Valley Civilization, was surrounded by a massive brick wall fortification. Other features and plan of the city were similar to that of Moenjodaro. The Kot Diji culture is marked by well-made pottery and houses built of mud-bricks on stone foundations.

Gandhara Heritage

Gandhara remains had once been the hallowed centre of Buddhism, the cradle of the world famous Gandhara sculpture, culture and learning. The archaeological remains found in Taxila, Peshawar, Charsadda, Takht Bhai, Swat Valley, and rock carving &* inscriptions along the ancient Silk Route (Karakoram Highway) has well recorded the history of Gandhara. Lying in Haro river valley,. Taxila, the main centre of Gandhara, is over 3,000 years old as it had attracted the attention of the great conqueror, Alexander in 327 BC, when it was a province of the powerful Achaemenian Empire. It later came under the Maurian dynasty and reached a remarkable matured level of development under the great Ashoka. Then appeared the Indo-Greek descendants of Alexander’s warriors and finally came the most creative period of Gandhara. The Kushan dynasty was established in about 50 A.D. during the next 20 years, Taxila, Peshawar and Swat became a renowned centre of learning, philosophy, art and trade. Pilgrims and travelers were attracted to Gandhara from as far as China and Greece. In 5th century AD, the White Huns snuffed out the last of the successive civilizations that held unbroken sway in this region for several centuries.

Mughal & Early Muslim Heritage

Pakistan is a treasure-house of Muslim architecture. Lahore, the cultural heart of Pakistan is situated along the bank of Ravi river. The city has witnessed rise and fall of many dynasties like Gaznevis (1021-1186), Ghoris (1186-1202) and Slaves (1206-1524) before arrival of the Mughals. The city was conquered by Babur of Ferghana (now in Uzbekistan), the founder of the Mughal dynasty (1524-1764). All the important monuments like the Royal Fort, Badshahi Mosque. Wazir Khan’s Mosque, Tombs of Jehangir, Asaf Khan, Noor Jehan, Anarkali, the Shalimar Gardens and Hiran Minar etc., were constructed during this period. On the other hand, the shrines, mosques and forts located in and around Multan and Bahawalpur are master pieces of Muslim architecture. Some important buildings are; Forts at Multan and Derawar (Bahawalpur), shrines of Shaikh Bahauddin Zakaria, Shah Rukan-e-Alam, Hazrat Shams Tabrezi at Multan and Tomb of Bib Jiwandi at Uchh Sharif near Bahawalpur.

Accessibility

Many international Airlines have regular flights to Karachi linking Pakistan with the rest of the world. Islamabad and Lahore have flight from Bangkok, Dubai, Beijing, Urmuqi, London, Copenhagen, Frankfurt, New York, Paris and Jeddah. Pakistan International Airlines (PIA), has linked major cities and tourist destinations through daily flights.

Azad Kashmir

Azad Kashmir

Physically scythe-shaped, the territory of Azad Kashmir is dotted with a vast chain of scenic and natural beauty spots amidst flowing streams, gushing out springs and flowering plants. The mountain tops over the valley look like circular and rectangular caps. The panorama is really enchanting. The valley rivals those of Kaghan and Swat in beauty and boasts of remarkable alpine scenery. It is bounded to the east by the line of control or (ceasefire line) with Indian held Kashmir and travel to foreigners is rather restricted. Azad Kashmir extends from the plains of Mirpur at the northern edge of the Punjab through the outlying foothills of the Himalayas, to the mountains in the north at 6,000 meters above sea level. It is drained by three major rivers, the Jhelum, the Neelam and the Poonch whose valleys are very beautiful. There are four districts of Azad Kashmir namely Muzaffarabad, Poonch, Kotli and Mirpur. These districts abound in natural beauty and rivers and streams flow throughout Azad Kashmir. All the four districts have lush green forests which provide cool breeze and foliage to the visitors.Roads are the only means of transport in Azad Kashmir and play a basic role in the development of the territory. The area of Azad Kashmir is 5134 square miles land strip in the shape of a crescent moon, 250 mile in length with width varying from 10 to 40 miles. The terrain is mostly rugged and mountainous with 15,000 feet high mountains in north-west touching the Punjab plains. The area is criss-crossed with rivers and numerous nullahs. The total length of roads in Azad Kashmir is 730 miles of metal-led and 530 miles of fair-weather roads in addition to 830 miles of link roads.

Muzaffarabad CAPITAL:

Situated at the confluence of the Jhelum and the Neelum rivers Muzaffarabad the capital of the State of Azad Jammu and Kashmir is at a distance of 86 miles from Rawalpindi and 49 miles from Abbottabad. Surrounded by mountains, it looks like a walled town. It is the administrative capital of Azad Kashmir. Behind the Secretariat to the east is a road climbing above the town from where one can walk up to Pir Chinasi at 2,900 meters with good views of the Jhelum Valley and the higher mountains above the Neelum to the north. From the cool on the Abbottabad Road, you can walk along the ridge looking over the Jhelum and Kunhar rivers. Past the Red fort, crossing Neelum river at Ghori, a few km way is 'Makra mountain' 3,890 meters which is visible from Muzaffarabad and continues on to Shogran in the Kaghan Valley. This is a superb short trek, although you need to camp overnight halfway. The upper Jhelum valley makes another interesting scenic excursion from Muzaffarabad. follow the Jhelum upstream, taking the road beneath the Domel bridge. This was the old route to Srinagar. The valley is broad with raised terraces above the river. Rice and maize are widely grown. Some 10 kms out of Muzaffarabad the river widens to from a small lake. This was created by a landslip some years ago. There is a small Angler's Hut here, which makes a pleasant picnic spot. It is possible to take boats out on the river. Book through the Tourist Department in 

Muzaffarabad City:

The city was founded by Sultan Muzaffar Khan of Bamba dynasty and was the seat of an independent State for quite a long period under his successors. The city is now a combination of old and new buildings and a blend of different cultures and languages. It has besides official buildings, farms, parks and the historic forts standing on the banks of the Neelum, Muzaffarabad, Mirpur, Rawlakot and Kotli are connected with Pakistan by the Micro-weave system of telephone. There are rest houses, good hotels and guest houses in Muzaffarabad city where the tourists can stay. The rather sleazy bazaar in Muzaffarabad can be explored for its walnut carvings and its Kashmiri shawls. It is sometimes possible to get a good bargain.

Muzaffarabad Fort

Border skirmishes between the armies of renowned Mughal Akbar and the Chak rulers of Kashmir were common. To ensure safety of the people, and the land, the Chaks realized to raise defense posts and efficiently counter the offensives. During the year 1949 the construction of the red fort was undertaken. It was finally completed by Sultan Muzaffar Khan the founder of Muzaffarabad city during 1646. When the Mughals overtook the Kashmir rule, this fort lost its importance. The Mughals were more interested in Kabul, Bokhara and Badakshan. During the Durrani rule the fort again came into limelight and its importance was rediscovered. Maharaja Gulab Sign and Ranbir Singh, the Dogra rulers, reconstructed and extended the fort for political and military operations. Towards the end of 1947 the Dogra forces filed away leaving the fort wide open to anybody. The architectonics of the fort show that great experts in design and structure participated in its construction. It is surrounded on three sides by Neelum river formally known as Kishan Ganga. the northern part had terraces with steps leading to the bank of the river. The Eastern side of the fort was very well protected from the hazards of flood waters but some parts in the north were slightly damaged. There was an inn at the entry of the fort which has to traces left now. It has been in the bad shape for quite some time and wears deserted look. The structure still stands with all its inherent glory, grandeur and its historical background.

Dhirkot

Dhirkot is best approached from Rawalpindi via Murree and the nearby Kohala Bridge over the Jhelum, the gateway to Azad Kashmir. It is small township situated at 6,000 feet above sea level and has a bracing climate. It is famous for its healthy surroundings, high altitude landscape.

The town also is famous for the beauty spots. Almost all the area is covered with green trees like deodar, pine and oak. the Dak Bungalow - rest house - which is situated amidst the dense forest is 5,500 feet above the sea level. the Dhirkot is also famous for the fruits mainly apples and apricots.

Bagh

Bagh, the Tehsil Headquarters of Distt. Poonch, is situate at the confluence of two mini rivers - Malwani and Mall which flow all the year round.Bagh city comprises at least 5,000 shops and has a hospital. the total population of the Tehsil Headquarters is over 3 lacs. Two rest houses are available for tourists. Permission for stay can be obtained from the nearby Forest Department, P.W.D. There are two degree colleges, one is for boys and the other for girls. 'Haji Pir Pass' is 20 miles from Bagh city which is linked with metalled road.

Chikar

The hill station of Chikar, 27 miles from Muzaffarabad has grown into a fairly large township. Three miles from Chikar is the hill station known as Loonbagla which is situated in the middle of a vast range of densely grown forests.The outstanding features of this hill station are its healthy climate and picturesque surroundings. Chikar is linked with Muzaffarabad by a motor able road and is connected with Bagh in Poonch district via Sudhan Gali.

Chinary

Chinary situated some 40 miles from Muzaffarabad is a scenic place with a very enchanting Rest House built by the former Dogra rulers. It lies just some twenty yards upward in the Bazaar. A visitor can easily see the Occupied Area beyond the border above 10 miles away. The city has a Telephone Exchange, a first class dispensary. It is famous for its fruits such as apples, apricots, walnuts and honey.

Neelum Valley

It is a valley of fountains, springs, waterfalls, flowering trees and plants. Geographically too, it is a hospitable valley. The Neelum Valley, 90 miles long bow-shaped with majestic pine, fir and deodar trees, lies north-south of Muzaffarabad (capital). This ninety-mile long kingdom of vegetation is ripped apart by the indigo blue Neelum river which flows serpentine down hills to merge itself into the river Jhelum at Domail. Domail, the confluence of two mighty rivers, presents highly fascinating scene of youthful embrace. This heart-warning spectacle is most soothing to the eye.The valley, starting from Muzaffarabad, the capital of Azad Kashmir, is about 150 miles long. It lies on both sides of the river Neelum.The geographical features enhance the natural beauty of the Valley. Its elevation, a mere 2,000 feet at the start, gradually rises till it attains a respectable height of 8,000 feet. On both sides there are high mountains and peaks. Nearly all the forest wealth of Azad Kashmir is to be found in this part of the State.There are two approaches to the valley. One from the Kaghan Valley which is linked with it at two points, the Nuri Nari Hali (Pass) and the Ratti Gali and many minor Passes. From Dawarian it takes two days for hiking or riding and night stay at Dharian at 12,000 feet.The second approach is from Muzaffarabad. It is a distance of 55 miles which is jeepable in fair weather. The Neelum meets the Jhelum river at Domali (meeting of the two) on the outskirts of Muzaffarabad city. From Paticka forest one reaches Nosari, 24 miles ahead of Muzaffarabad. Next come Chaliana (height 3,200 feet), Qazi Nag, Barian, Salkhela, Kundal Shahi, Athmaqam on this road. On a number of places, the local population has built rope crossings on the river. It is a very dangerous device and the very thought of crossing these points is horrible but thrilling. Tao Butt is an example of vegetation generosity of the liberal nature. The spot is donned with all delicacies and niceties. Nature flirts here with fantastic environment. The forest wealth abounds in the Neelum Valley. Deodar, pine, fir, wild walnut, strawberry and hosts of other high stature trees and other types of wild growth and herbs are the treasure of the valley. Besides being invaluable in economic terms, the variety of natural growth offers a captivating scenery. Shunder Hill tops are covered with green forests and the fields are lush green with crops.

Bhateeka

The valley is accessible by an all weather road metalled up to Kundal Shahi and well maintained up to Kel. At the gateway to the Valley lies a sprawling town of Bhateeka with a dependable commercial centre. For a tourist, Bhateeka can be the first journey break. This town has a modest bazaar with day-to-day activity. All essential items are available in the bazaar which feeds a fairly large number of villages behind it. On its back runs the forth-emitting river Neelum. The village and bazaar are connected by a suspension bridge crossable by jeep alone. This old bridge is being replaced with an RCC one enabling it to afford heavy traffic. The running streams, water channels and water falls across the Bhateeka village presents another heart winning scene. It is fully electrified.A few years back, the Federal Minister of Power and Water, Government of Pakistan had a hydel station built in this village over a perennial nullah which is in fact a mini river of Bhateeka. The quality of life here is full of emotions despite its simplicity. It is perhaps due to verdure. Financially, it is an affluent town. Majority of the village folk is engaged in profitable business abroad especially in the Middle East countries. A number of scheduled banks of Pakistan are operating in the village on the strength of remittances from abroad. But despite fattening coffers, the town has no industrial activity. The ratting of machinery is unknown to the town.The serene atmosphere shrouded into lush greenery and milky-white waterfalls and water curses and their rhythmic flow totally absorbs the visitors. Added to the general plant fragrance is the sweet smell of menthol plants along the banks of the nullah, it cuts its way across the crop-fields in such wavy manner that it looks as a white ribbons over green head of damsel Nature. Bhateeka is linked by ancillary roads with other surrounding areas uphill and downhill.

Kundal Shahi

The other midway station in Kundal Shahi. Also a small commercial centre. Kundal Shahi headquarter the operational centre of the Azad Kashmir Logging and Saw Mills which is responsible for timber extraction to commercial markets in Pakistan. Kundal Shahi station has a rest house manned by the logging and saw mills at the Western bank of river Neelum adjacent to metalled road. A tourist range bifurcates from Kundal Shahi to Jagra Nullah which is again a mini river running all the year round. Its water is glass-like limpid having good potential for trout fish development. The range is also accessible by a kutcha but well maintained road. The forests are so thick in the range that a trip to the range would be like going through a tunnel. It is tunnel of forest indeed.

Athmaqam

The other important station in the Valley is Athmaqam connected by metalled road with Muzaffarabad. This town has a Town Committee of its own with an Intermediate College, a hospital and a telephone exchange. A few scheduled banks of Pakistan are also operating here. The rest house, built at the foot of the Western hilltop which tapers towards Balakot in the NWFP, is accommodative. It has been built in such a way that its lawns face the river below it. A daily bus service piles between the town and Muzaffarabad. From here upwards emerges typical Kashmiri living pattern with houses built of wooden logs, most of them double-storeyed. Curd, cheese maize bread along the chutney is the other palatable diet. The other major diet is rice.

Kairan

So far is the half of the Neelum Valley and after it are the more enchanting spots full of exuberance and life. Kairan is another beauty spot on the river side with a neat and clean wooden flooring rest house. Its lawns slope down towards the western bank of the river. The bazaar consists of over a dozen shops with a post office and telephone call office. Commodities are transported to the bazaar from Athmaqam by trucks. The physical feature of Kairan resort resembles a broad forehead of a person with thick hair on the head. Stay is more comfortable here.

Jangwan

Ten miles west of Mirpur, at the end of a jeep road, Jangwan is the well known shining spot on the confluence of the Jhelum and Poonch rivers. It is an ideal place for fishing and anglers in large numbers visit it with rod and line.

Baghsar

Bagshar lake is an ideal tourist resort in the Samhani valley in Mirpur district. It is a four mile long sheet of crystal clear water that soothes the senses of a traveller after a 40 mile road journey from Gujrat via Bhimber on the old Mughal road to Kashmir. It was through this road that Mughal Emperors travelled to Kashmir.On the top of the hill there is the famous Mughal fort, overlooking the lake. Rising four stories high this massive structure of granite is a feet of Moghul engineering that has stood the ravages of time. It has also played an important role in subsequent history during the time of Ahmed Shah Abdali, Ranjit Singh and Gulab Singh.Baghsar, the lake and the garden can be compared to any other Mughal monument in beauty and splendor. All around the gardens there are orchards and along the borders laburnum grow in wild profusion.

Rawalakot

Rawalakot is situated in the heart of Poonch district at a height of 6,000 feet and is a plain saucer shaped valley. It is approachable from Rawalpindi via Kohala and Azad Pattan by motor able roads.

Province KPK

Province Khyber Pakhtunkhwa:


It runs for over 1,100 kilometres (680 miles) along the border with Afghanistan. Peshawar is its capital, and the

Vale of Peshawar, fertile and well watered by the Kabul and Swat rivers, is its heart. This was also the heart of the ancient kingdom of Gandhara and is rich in archaeological remains. The northern half of the province consists of five river valleys running roughly parallel, north to south: the Chitral, dir, Swat, Indus and Kaghan. These valleys are on the northern edge of the monsoon belt, so are fairly green and partly wooded in their southern sections. Northern Chitral and the upper regions of the Indus Valley are mountainous deserts, where cultivation depends entirely on irrigation. The NWFP south of Peshawar is below the monsoon belt and consists of low, rocky mountains and wide, gravelly plains.

The warlike Pathans (or Pushtuns or Pukhtuns), who live in NWFP and the adjoining areas of Afghanistan, number about 17 million, making themselves a race apart, a chosen people, and no one has ever managed to subdue them. The Mughals, Afghans, Sikhs, British and Russians have suffered defeat at their hands. The Pathans are divided into numerous sub-tribes and clans, each defending its territory and honor. In addition, the Pathans serve as Pakistan's first line of defense along the Durand Line, the border drawn in 1893 by Sir Mortimer Durand, then foreign secretary of British India.

Peshawar

About 172 kms west of Rawalpindi/Islamabad by road about half an hour by air lies the last major town of Pakistan, the ancient and legendary Peshawar, city of proud Pathans. Peshawar the capital city of North-West Frontier Province, is a frontier town, the meeting place of the sub-continent and Central Asia. It is also a place where ancient traditions jostle with those of today, where the bazaar in the old city has changed little in the past hundred years except to become the neighbor of a modern university, some modern hotels, several international banks and one of the best museums in Pakistan.No other city is quite like old Peshawar. The bazaar within the walls is like an American Wild movie costumed as a Bible epic. Pathan tribesmen stroll down the street with their hands hidden within their shawls, their faces half obscured by the loose ends of their turbans. (With his piercing eyes and finely chiseled nose, the Pathan must be the handsomest man on earth).

On the other side of the railway line is the cantonment, its tree-lined streets wide and straight as they pass gracious gardens.Clubs, churches, schools, The Mall, Saddar Bazaar and the airport round out the British contribution to the modernization of Peshawar. Further west is University Town, Peshawar's newest section and the site of Peshawar University.A local book, Peshawar, History City of the Frontier, by A.H. Dani and published by Khyber Mail Press in 1969, makes a good first purchase. It provides a detailed account of Peshawar's history and a tour of this city walls and ancient monuments. 

History

After the Kushan era, Peshawar declined into an obscurity not broken until the 16th century, following the Mughal emperor Babar's decision to rebuild the fort here in 1530. Sher Shah Suri, has successor (or, rather, the usurper of his son's throne), turned Peshawar's renaissance into a boom when he ran his Delhi-to-Kabul Shahi Road through the Khyber Pass. The Mughals turned Peshawar into a 'city of flowers' (one of the meanings of its name) by planting trees and laying our gardens. 

Peshawar owes its founding 2,000 years ago to those same Kushans. In the second century AD, Kanishka, the greatest of the Kushan kings, moved his winter capital here from Pushkalavati, 30 kilometres (20 miles) to the north. His summer capital was north of Kabul at Kapisa, and the Kushans moved freely back and forth through the Khyber Pass between the two cities, from which they ruled their enormous and prosperous empire for the next 400 years. The fortunes of Peshawar at inextricable linked to the Khyber Pass, the eastern end of which it guards. The pass seems to have been little used in prehistoric times, and even in early historic times it was generally shunned as too narrow and thus too prone to ambush. Not until the powerful Kushans invaded Gandhara and pacified the area in the first century AD did the Khyber become a popular trade route. 

In 1818, Ranjit Singh captured Peshawar for his Sikh Empire. He burned a large part of the city and felled the trees shading its many gardens for firewood. the following 30 years of Sikh rule saw the destruction of Peshawar's own Shalimar Gardens and of Baba's magnificent fort, not to mention the dwindling of the city's population by almost half. The British caused the Sikhs and occupied Peshawar in 1849 but, as much as Sikh rule had been hated, its British replacement aroused little enthusiasm. More or less continuous warfare between the British and the Pathans necessitated a huge British garrison. When the British built a paved road through the Khyber Pass, they needed to build numerous forts and pickets to guard it. 

Qissa Khawani Bazaar

Extending from west to east in the heart of the city is the romantic 'Street of Story-tellers' - the Qissa Khawani Bazaar. In olden days, this was the site of camping ground for caravans and military adventures, where professional story-tellers recited ballads and tales of war and love to throngs of traders and soldiers. Today the story-tellers are gone but the atmosphere lingers on. Bearded tribesmen bargain with city traders over endless cups of green tea. Fruit stalls look small colorful pyramids. People from everywhere throng the crowded street. Afghans, Iraqis, Uzbeks, Tajiks, Afridis, and Shinwaris move around with ease and grace in their colorful native robes and run shoulders with the Western tourists-lost in a world so different, so enchanting. 

Bazaar Bater-bazan

'The Street of Partridge Lovers' lies on the left hand corner of Qissa Khawani Bazaar. It derives its name from the bird-market which stood here till a few decades ago and has now been replaced by stores and shops selling exquisitely engraved brass and copper ware. However, a single bride shop still remains as a long reminder of the not too distant past.

Bala Hisar Fort

Built on a raised platform from the ground level, the Bala Hisar Fort stands at the north-western edge of the city. The original structure was raised in 1519 AD during the reign of the Mughal Emperor Babar. It was reconstructed in its present form by Sikhs who ruled over Peshawar valley between 1791 and 1849 AD.

Jamrud Fort

Same 16 kms from Peshawar, on the Khyber road, an old battle-ship attracts the eye: this is Jamrud Fort. Looking ruggedly majestic with its jumble of towers and loop-holed walls, the fort contains the grave of its builder, the famous Sikh General Hari Singh Nalwa, who died here in action against the forces of the Amir of Kabul in 1837 AD. Excursion from Peshawar

Warsak Dam

The gigantic multi-purpose Warsak Dam is situated 30 kms north-west of Peshawar in the heart of tribal territory. It has a total generating capacity of 240,000 kms and will eventually serve to irrigate 110,000 acres of land.

The Museum

Situated on the Grand Trunk Road in the Cantonment area, the museum houses a rich treasure of art, sculpture and historical relics, particularly of the Gandhara period (300 BC - 300 AD). The pieces on show at the museum include Graeco-Buddhist stone and stucco sculpture, gold, silver and copper coins, antique pottery, armor, old manuscripts, Buddha images, terra-coat plaques, antiques of ivory, shell and metal and a replica of the famous casket which contained the relics of Lord Buddha. 

Takht-e-Bhai Situated atop a 160 meter high hill are the remains of a famous Buddhist monastery at Takht-e-Bhai, about 80 kms from Peshawar. This site has produced fragmentary sculptures in stone and stucco that indicate the highly developed sculptural sense of their creators. This site dates back from 2nd-3rd century AD.

Charsadda

Potentially one of the most important ancient sites of Asia is represented by a group if imposing mounds at Charsadda, 30 kms north-east of Peshawar. The site has long been identified with Pushkalavati, the pre-Kushan capital of Gandhara. This city was captured in 324 BC after a siege of 30 days, by the troops of Alexander the Great and its formal surrender was received by Alexander himself. It has been established beyond doubt that this city was the metropolitan centre of Asiatic trade and meeting place of oriental and occidental cultures even as long ago as 500-1,000 BC.

Mahabat Khan's Mosque. This mosque was built in 1630 AD by Mahabat Khan, the Governor of Peshawar, during the reign of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jehan (1628-1658 AD). It is a fine massive structure with lofty minarets. Situated in the Andar Shahar Bazaar, it is the finest mosque in the city.

Khyber Pass

The historic Khyber Pass being at a distance of 16 kms west of Peshawar and extends up to the Pak-Afghanistan border at Torkkam, 55 kms away. Starting from the foot-hills of the Slueman Range it gradually rises to an elevation of 1,066 meters above sea level.Khyber Pass has been a silent witness to countless events in the history of mankind. As one drives though the Pas at a leisurely pace, imagination unfolds pages of history, the Aryans descending upon the fertile northern plains in 1,500 BC subjugating the indigenous Dravidian population and settling down to open a glorious chapter in the history of civilization, the Persian hordes under Darius (6th century BC) crossing into the Punjab to annex yet another province to the Achaemenian Empire; the armies of Alexander the Great (326 BC) marching through the rugged Pass to fulfill the wishes of a young, ambitious conqueror; the terror of Ghanghis Khan unwrapping the majestic hills and turning back towards the trophies of ancient Persia; the white Huns bringing fire and destruction in their wake; the Scythians and the Parthians, the Mughals and the Afghans, conquerors all, crossing over to leave their impact and add more chapters to the diverse history of this sub-continent. 

The Khyber Train

For trail enthusiasts, the Khyber Railway from Peshawar to Landi Kotal is a three-star attraction. The British built it in the 1920s at the then enormous cost of more than two million pounds. It passes through 34 tunnels totaling five kms (three miles) and over 92 bridges and culverts. The two or three coaches are pulled and pushed by two SG 060 oil-fired engines. At one point, the track climbs 130 meters in little more than a kilometer (425 feet in 0.7 miles) by means of the heart-stopping Changai Spur. This is a W-shaped section of track with two cliff-hanging reversing stations, at which the train wheezes desperately before shuddering to a stop and backing away from the brink. The Khyber train currently runs only by appointment. Groups of 20 to 45 passengers can book one bogey for an all day outing to Landi Kotal and back, a ride lasting ten to eleven hours, for US $ 1,000. But you can easily see the train at rest at Peshawar Station 

Darra Adam Khel

Darra is the gun factory of the Tribal Areas, located 40 kilometres (25 miles) south of Peshawar on the road to Kohat, a drive of about 40 minutes. To visit the gun factories, foreigners need a permit from the Home Secretary of NWFP whose office is in the civil Secretariat on Police Road, but you can drive by bus or car through Darra without a permit provided you do not stop. The permit is free and issued while you wait, but you should get it the day before you plan your factory visit. The Darra arms 'factory' fired up in 1897. In return for turning a blind eye to this illegal Pathan enterprise, the British were guaranteed safe passage along the main roads. In any case, the British believed it better that the Pathans have inferior weapons of their own making than stolen British-made guns. Darra's main street is lined on either side with small forges at which guns are made by hand. the tool are astonishingly primitive, yet the forges turn out accurate reproduction of every conceivable sort of weapon, from pen pistols and hand-grenades to automatic rifles and anti-aircraft guns. The copies are so painstakingly reproduced that even the serial number of the original is carried over. Much of the craftsmanship is very fine, but the reinforcing rods diverted from the building trade. The main street constantly erupts with the roar of gunfire, as tribesmen step out to test prospective purchases. 

The Swat Valley
Swat is the most historically interesting valley in Pakistan. It is also one of the most beautiful - certainly much

greener and more fertile than the valleys further north because it lies within the monsoon belt. In Lower Swat, the valley is wide, the fields on either side of the river are full of wheat and Lucerne, and the villages are prosperous and surrounded by fruit trees. In Upper Swat, the river tumbles through pine forests hemmed in by snow-capped mountains. For the historical and amateur archaeologist, Swat offers several hundred archaeological sites spanning 5,000 years of history. For the sportsman and trekker, it offers good fishing and hiking.

The people of Swat are Muslim Pathans, Kohistanis and Gujars. Some have very distinct features and claim to be descendants of Alexander the Great.

The Swat women wear colorful embroidered shirts and shalwars (baggy trousers). The men wear shalwar-gamiz and embroidered caps or silk turban. Swat has been inhabited for over two thousand years. The first inhabitants were settled in well-planned towns. In 327 BC, Alexander the Great fought his way to Udegram and Barikot and stormed their battlemens. In Greek accounts these towns have been identified as Ora and Bazira. Around the 2nd century BC, the area was occupied by Buddhists, who were attracted by the peace and serenity of the land. There are many remains that testify to their skills as sculptors and architects. In the beginning of the 11th century AD Mahmud of Ghazni advanced through Dir and invaded Swat, defeating Gira, the local ruler, near Udegram. Later the land was taken over by the Dilazak, who in turn were ousted by the Yusufzais.

Mingora

Mingora is the district headquarter and commercial centre of Swat. the Swat Museum, located between Mingora and Saidu, has a rich collection of Gandhara art which is worth viewing.

Swat Museum

Swat Museum is on the east side of the street, halfway between Mingora and Saidu. Japanese aid has given a facelift to its seven galleries which now contain an excellent collection of Gandhara sculptures taken from some of the Buddhist sites in Swat, rearranged and labeled to illustrate the Buddha's life story. Terracotta figurines and utensils, beads, precious stones, coins, weapons and various metal objects illustrate daily life in Gandhara. The ethnographic section displays the finest examples of local embroidery, carved wood and tribal jewellery.

Butkara (Butkada) Stupa

One of the most important Buddhist shrines in Swat, is near the museum. Take the dirt track on the left (north) side of the museum for one kilometer (about half a mile). The stupa is 400 meters (above a quarter of mile) across the fields to the left (north).

The stupa, which dates from the second century BC, was possibly built by the Mauryan emperor Ashoka to house some of the ashes of the Buddha. In subsequent centuries, it was enlarged five times by encasing the existing structure in a new shell. Italian excavators working in 1955 exposed the successive layers of the stupa, each layer illustrating a stage in the evolution of building techniques.

KabalKabal is a golfer's paradise: an eighteen-hotel course is open all year round and anyone can play there by paying the green fees.
Upper Swat Valley

The Swat Valley becomes more beautiful the higher you go. In mid-winter it is sometimes blocked by snow above Bahrain, but in summer you can drive up beyond Kalam and from there trek north to either the Chitral Valley or the Gilgit Valley. From Khwazakhela, the road across the Shangla Pass to the Karakoram Highway is usually open only from April to December.

Miandam

Miandam is a small summer resort ten kilometres (six miles) up a steep side valley and 56 kilometres (35 miles) from Saidu Sharif, making it an hour's drive. The metalled road passes small villages stacked up the hillside, the roofs of one row of houses forming the street for the row of houses above. Tiny terraced fields march up the hillside right to the top.

Miandam is a good place for walkers. Paths follow the stream, past houses with beehives set into the walls and good-luck charms whitewashed around the doors. In the graveyards are carved wooden grave posts with floral designs, like those used by Buddhists 1,000 years ago.

Madyan

Madyan is a tourist resort on the Swat River. At 1,321 meters (4,335 feet) above sea level, it is neither as cool nor as beautiful as Miandam, but it is a larger town and has many hotels in all price ranges and some good tourist shopping. Antique and modern shawls, traditional embroidery, tribal jewellery, carved wood and antique or reproduced coins are sold along the main street. This is the last Swati village, offering interesting two-and three-day walks up to the mountain villages... ask in the bazaar in Muambar Khan's shop for a guide. North of Madyan is Swat Kohistan where walking is not recommended without an armed guard.

The central mosque at Madyan has carved wooden pillars with elegant scroll capitals, and its mud-plastered west wall is covered with relief designs in floral motifs. Both bespeak the Swati's love of decoration.

Bahrain

Bahrain is ten kilometres north of Madyan and only slightly higher, at about 1,400 meters (4,500 feet). It is another popular riverside tourist resort, with bazaars worth exploring for their handicrafts. Some of the houses have carved wooden doors, pillars and balconies. These show a remarkable variety of decorative motifs, including floral scrolls and bands of ornamental diaper patterns almost identical to those seen on Buddhist shrines and quite different from the usual Muslim designs.

Kalam

Kalam, 29 kilometres (18 miles) from Bahrain and about 2,000 meters (6,800 feet) above sea level, the valley opens out, providing rooms for a small but fertile plateau above the river. In Kalam the Ushu and Utrot rivers join to form the Swat river. Here, the metalled road ends and shingle road leads to the Ushu and Utrot valleys.

From Matiltan one gets a breath-taking view of the snow-capped Mount Falaksir 5918 meters (19,415 ft.), and another un-named peak 6096 meters (20,000 ft.) high. PTDC offers motel accommodation in Miandam, Kalam and Besham. for booking please contact: PTDC Motels, Ground Floor, Block 4-B, Markaz F-7, Bhitai Road, Islamabad. Tel: (92) (51) 111 555 999.

Ushu, Utrot and Gabral Valleys

The valleys of Ushu, Utrot and Gabral beyond Kalam, constitute some of the most beautiful parts of Swat. There is good trout fishing around Utrot. Foreign tourists are advised to contact the local police authorities at Kalam before preceding to the valleys of Ushu, Utrot and Gabral.

Swat is ideal for camping, trekking and mountaineering. Permits are necessary, and can be obtained from the Tourism Division, Government of Pakistan, Markaz F-7, Islamabad.

The waters of the Swat River around Kalam and in the valleys of Ushu and Gabral abound in brown trout. Fishing licenses must be obtained from the office of the Assistant Commissioner, Fisheries at Madyan and Kalam. 

The Kaghan Valley

The 161 kms long landscape of the Kaghan Valley with its towering Himalayan peaks, peaceful lakes, majestic glaciers and splashing waterfalls is a scenic wonderland, ending northwards in the 4148 meters (13,600 ft) high Babusar Pass, jeep service is available in the valley during summer, while motels and rest-houses offer comfortable accommodation. There is a PTDC stopover Motel in Bellyached and a big tourist resort in Naran which provides excellent accommodation with meals at reasonable rates. It is an ideal area for trekking and trout fishing. The adventure begins in Bellyached, a charming mountain village, from where a road climbs 34 kms up to Shogran. At a height of 2,362 meters, Shogran has thickly forested slopes and grassy meadows, which present an ideal setting for your first stopover.

The raging Kunhar river accompanies the steep winding road which leads to the Kaghan village. This little village, after which the valley has been named, is only 61 kms from Bellyached. Between Kaghan and Naran there is a distance of 25 kms. Naran serves as the base-camp for excursions to other valleys, lakes and peaks.


Lake Saif-ul-Muluk
10 kms from Naran, this lake is 3200 meters high, providing an awe-inspiring view of Malika Parbat (Queen of 
the Mountains) 5,260 meters high. You can go boating on the lake and hear the local legend about Prince Saif-ul-Muluk who fell in love with fairy.

Babusar Pass 4146 meters high, this is the gateway to the Gilgit valley. On a clear day, you can catch a glimpse of the towering Nanga Parbat, 8126 meters high. This is the highest point, and marks the end of the Kaghan expedition.

On the way to the Pass there are many quaint villages, such as Battakundi, Burawai, Besal and Gittidas, where you can rest. If you have the time, the enchanting Lalazar plateau near Batakundi and Lulusar lake near the Babusar Pass are worth visiting.

Fishing

The Kunhar River and the various lakes offer plenty of fishing opportunities. Both the brown and rainbow trout and the mahasheer are found in abundance. A fishing permit may be obtained from either the Fisheries Department at Naran, or the Trout Hatchery at Shinu. Fishing rods are available at Naran on hire. Guides are also available at Naran.

Chitral

The Chitral valley at an elevation of 1127.76 meters (3,700 feet) is favorite with mountaineers, anglers, hunters, hikers, naturalists and anthropologists. The 7787.64 meters (25,550 feet) Trichmir, the highest peak of the Hindu Kush mountain dominates this 321.87 kms (200 miles) long exotic valley.

Chitral district has Afghanistan on its north, south and west. A narrow strip of Afghan territory, Wakhan separates it from the Soviet Union. The tourist season in Chitral is from June to September.

Kafir-Kalash Tribe

One of the major attractions of Chitral are the Kalash valleys - the home of the Kafir-Kalash or 'Wearers of the Black Robe', a primitive pagan tribe. Their ancestry is shrouded in mystery. A legend has it that some soldiers of the legions of Alexander of Macedonia settled down in Chitral and the preset Kafir-Kalash are their off-springs. The 3,000 strong Kafir-Kalash live in the valleys of Birir, Bumburet and Rambur in the south. Bumburet, the largest and the most picturesque valley of the Kafir-Kalash, is 40 kms (25 miles) from Chitral and is connected by a jeepable road. Birir, 34 kms (21 miles) away, is accessible by a jeepable road. Rambur is 32 kms (20 miles) from Chitral. the road is jeepable up to Ayun and the remaining 16 kms (10 miles) have to be travelled on foot. The Kalash women wear black gowns of coarse cloth in summer and hand-spun wool dyed in black in winter. Their picturesque headgear is made of woolen black material studded with cowries shells, buttons and crowned with a large colored feather. The Kalash are gay people and love music and dancing particularly on occasions of their religious festivals like Joshi Chilimjusht (14th & 15th May - Spring), Phool (20th-25th September) and Chowas (18th to 21st December). Foreign tourists require special permits to visit the Kalash valleys. Permits are issued free of cost by the Deputy Commissioner , Chitral. 

Garam Chashma (Hot Springs

Elevation: 1859 meters (6,100 feet). Distance: 45 km (28 miles) north-west of Chitral. By jeep 3 hours. This unspoiled enchanting valley of orchards, verdant fields and snow clad peaks is renowned for its boiling sulphur springs which are famous for healing effect on skin diseases, gout, rheumatism and chronic headaches. For the convenience of tourists "humams" (baths) have been constructed near the springs. Foreign tourists are requested to pay a toll tax of Rs. 25.00 per person.

Birmoghalasht

Elevation: 2743 meters (9,900 feet). distance: 15 km (9 miles). Worth visiting is the fairy-tale summer palace of the ex-ruler perched at a height of 2743 meters (9,000 feet). It offers awe-inspiring views of Trichmir and panoramic vistas of valleys below. The fort is approachable on foot only.

History of Polo

Polo is an equestrian sport with its origin embedded in Central Asia dating as far back as sixth century BC. At first it was training game for Cavalry Units for the King's guards or other elite troops. To the warlike tribesmen who played polo with as many as 100 players to a side it was a miniature battle. Polo became a Persian national sport played extensively by men as well as women in the sixth century AD. Usually played in front of royal palaces, marble goal posts still stand in front of the palace in Teheran. From Persia the game spread to Arabia, then to Tibet, China and Japan. In China, in the year 910, the death of a favorite relative in a game prompted Emperor A-PAO-CHI to order the beheading of all players. In the sub-continent polo was introduced by the Muslim conquerors in the thirteenth century. the English work Polo is the Balti word meaning 'Ball'. There are four players to a side but this is by no means a rule in local polo games. In the past there was no limit to the number of players on each side and no time-limit either. Whichever team scored nine goals first was the winner in all official tournaments. The present game with a team of six players in a side lasts one hour with a ten-minute break. Gilgit, Chitral and Baltistan have always played the game of polo closest to its original form. In the past the local Rajas, Mirs and Mehtars were the patrons of the game. At times more than 50% of the annual budget of their principalities would be spent on supporting the game of polo. The first time a polo tournament took place at the Shandur Top was in 1936. A British Political Agent, Major Cobb, who was fond of playing polo under a full moon had the polo ground near Shandur named 'Moony Polo Ground'.

Calendar of Polo Tournaments

1. Nauroze Polo Tournament, Gilgit (1-7 November every year)
2. Shandur Polo Tournament (second week of July) every year)
3. Chitral Polo Tournament (...?...)
4. Skarud and Khaplu Polo tournament (5-10 September every year)

Shandur Polo Tournament

The most exciting polo tournament of the entire Northern Areas is played on top of the Shandur Pass, almost 4000 meters above sea level, a place unique and exotic in itself surrounded by some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the world. the event marks the annual rivalry between the polo teams of Gilgit and Chitral.

The Shandur Polo Tournament also has some added attractions for the visitors. These include a Golf tournament at the Shandur Golf ground, also reputedly the highest golf ground in the world; a trout fishing competition as the neighboring streams and takes abound with trout; other equestrian events and a festival of folk dances of the Northern Areas. The Shandur Polo Tournament offers much more than an ordinary festival stretching over five days and four nights.

The highlight of all festivals of course remains the final match between the Gilgit and Chitral polo teams. Polo is played here in its original state with a minimum of rules and provides a most colorful spectacle. Supporters of both sides travel long distances from the remote parts of Chitral and Gilgit areas in order to be present at the thrilling Shandur Polo Tournament. The event, as such, provides a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of the ordinary people of these regions. Their culture and indigenous customs are a delight to behold for the visitors.

Shandur offers crystal clear lakes, snow covered mountains and alpine flowers amidst vast stretches of green grass. A tourist village comprising tents and restaurant springs up during the tournament. Merchants from Chitral and Gilgit set up Souvenir and Folk craft shops. The tournament offers visitors an opportunity to mix with the locals of these areas.

How to reach Shandur Polo

The Shandur Top lies mid-way between Chitral and Gilgit on an unmetalled road travelling on which a adventurous, to say the least. The distance from either side, Chitral or Gilgit, to the Shandur Pass is approximately 168 km (105 miles).

Getting to Chitral or Gilgit is possible by air on PIA Foker operated flights from Peshawar and Islamabad. There are daily flights but are subject to weather and tourists planning Togo by air must make allowance of at least a couple of days in their itineraries just in case the weather does not permit flights to operate.

Access to Chitral by Road

Access to Chitral by road is either from Peshawar or from Islamabad. Both these routes join up in Swat from where you proceed via Dir over the 3200 meter high Lowari Pass and on to Chitral. Jeep can be hired both at Chitral and Gilgit to finally end up at the Shandur Top. Whether you decide to go through Chitral or through Gilgit you will encounter superb mountain scenery complete with crystal clear waters of Northern Area rivers. From the Chitral side it is certainly worthwhile for travelers to stop at Mastuj for the night. From Gilgit side travelers can stop for the right at Gupis.

Province Baluchistan

Baluchistan

West of the Indus Plains is Baluchistan, the largest province in Pakistan with an area about 343,000 square km. But though it's bigger than the British Isles, it only has a population of about one million, due mainly to its daunting arid geography.

In the south of the province, Makran is almost entirely desert with low, dry hills rising from 300 meters to 2500 meters in the north. In the west there is a large salt lake, Hammum-i-Maskhel, and more expansive desert plains. This is where the Chagai and Toba Kakar Mountain Ranges form the borders of Iran, Afghanistan and Pakistan. 

Baluchistan is outside the monsoon zone and has, with the exception of the hilly and arid mountainous regions, a pleasant climate. In winter the temperature falls to as low as - 30 C while in summer it ranges from 18 to 30 C. The province has been influenced by the civilizations in the Indus, Dir and Swat Valleys. One of the oldest Neolithic sites (6000 BC) is to be found at Mehr Ghar just south of Bolan Pass. This culture faded away in 3000 BC about the same time that the Indus Valley Civilization emerged.

Fiercely independent Baluchistan never really became part of the Mughal Empire, but effectively remained an autonomous frontier tributary. In India they fought the Hindus and gained some influence in the Punjab and Sindh. In order to survive they expediently changed their loyalty and allegiance when necessary; at one time with the Moghuls, then the Persians and the Afghans, but their constant was the fight for Islam. When the Mughal power declined they took on the Sikhs, the Marathis and finally the British, who arrived in 1841. 

Makran, once a thriving region with its capital in Panjgur and commercial entrepot in Tiz with 'great warehouses, palm groves and a beautiful mosque, with people of all nations', simply dried up. 

Baluchistan is where the alternative rout of the Euro-Asian Highway passes from Zahedan in Iran to Taftan in Baluchistan and on to Quetta. Another alternative road turns south from Kandahar in Afghanistan into Chaman in Baluchistan - this was the route for freight bound for Afghanistan arriving through Karachi harbour. Apart from its importance as a transit area, there are mineral resources which are just beginning to be tapped. The Sui district has one of the largest gas deposits in the world.

Baluchistan is a province of contrasts. It has some of the bleakest landscape in the country with grim, jagged mountains, barren and arid land where the sparse greenery shrivels and wilts, but hidden away are some stunningly beautiful places.

Quetta

Quetta, the capital of Baluchistan, is linked by air, rail and road with all the major cities of Pakistan, particularly Karachi which has an international airport. Ziarat is connected by 133 km road from Quetta. Regular coach, bus and wagon services ply between Quetta and Ziarat, particularly during the tourist season.

Quetta is situated at elevation of 1677 meters (5500 ft). Quetta is one of the best known tourist resort and also provincial capital of Baluchistan. The name Quetta is derived from the world ' Kuwatta' which means a fort. The city is surrounded by imposing hills like Chiltan, Takatoo, Murdar and Zarghun. It lies 1692 meters above sea level at the mouth of Bolan Pass. The inhabitants are mainly Pathans, Baluch and Brahuis. Nomadic tribes- man pass through Quetta valley during spring and autumn with their herds of sheep and camels.

Hana Lake

A little short of the place where the Urak valley begins and ten kms from Quetta is the Hinna Lake. The greenish- blue water of the lake provides a rich contrast to the sandy brown of the hills in the back ground.

The Urak valley is 21 km from Quetta city. The road is lying on both sides with wild roses and fruit orchards. Peaches, palms, apricots and apples of many varieties are grown in this valley. 

Hazarganji Chiltan National Park, 20 km south-west of Quetta, rare animals like' Markhors' have been declared a protected species. The park is spread over 38,429 acres with altitude ranging from 2021 to 3264 meters. 

It has a variety of wildlife specially Markhor of which there are five distinct kinds. The kind that is encountered most often is the Chiltan Markhor. The other animals include straight-horned Markhor, 'gad' (wild sheep) and leopards which occasionally migrate to the park from other areas, wolves stripped hyaena, hares, wild cats and porcupines.

Coastline

The coastline of Baluchistan extends over 750 kms from Hub near Karachi, to the Gawadar Bay on Pakistan-Iran border. The whole area is rich with a variety of marine life and has long sunny beaches. Coastal towns of Pasni, Jiwani and Gawadar are linked by air with Karachi. The coastal tribes are as colorful as those of central and upper Baluchistan. Their colorful costumes, songs and dances are fascinating.

Passes

Bolan Pass

Along Bolan Pass, where the road winds through the picturesque mountains one is reminded of the huge odds that the armies from Central Asia and north must have faced when swooping down the plains of he present day Pakistan.

Khojak Pass

The Khojak Pass leads directly to the border of Afghanistan which is 153 kms away from Quetta. The scenery is as breath-taking here as it is at Bolan Pass. The journey to the border town of Chaman passes through a 4 kms tunnel, more than 1945 meters above sea level.

Lak Pass

Lak Pass is located between Kalat and Quetta. Here the highway takes a turn for Koh-e-Taftan, Saindak copper mines and Zahidan in Iran. On the hills, oblivious to the presence of the traffic and humans, hundreds of sheep browse upon the scant grass available.

Ziarat

Pakistan has a number of beautiful valleys, enchanting their spectators with enthralling beauty but Ziarat's is importance and an archaic treasure of Junipers forests. Situated about 122 km in the north of metropolis city of Quetta in Baluchistan, this popular picnic resort is at the elevation of 8,200 feet from the sea level. The summers in the valley are always pleasant, attracting a number of tourists, and the winters extremely harsh. Junipers forests, which are one of the world oldest, are the main source of lush green vista of the Ziarat valley. some of the trees in Junipers forests had been sowed as long as 5000 years ago, making Ziarat as the second biggest Junipers valley in the world. 

The word Ziarat means a 'shrine' (grave of a holy man). A folklore tells a saint, Kharwari Baba, who is believed to have stayed in the valley and blessed it. He was a member of Sarangzai tribe and his original name was Mulla Tahir. Later he became a disciple of Nana Sahib. A number of miracles are attributed to Khurwari Baba. The shrine of Khurwari Baba, after which Ziarat was named, is located 8 km away from Ziarat and is visited by a large number of people to pay attribute to the divine soul.

Ziarat takes pride in hosting Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah, the founder of Pakistan on a number of occasions. He also spent the last days of his life in a government residency there.

This monumental residency was built in 1882 by the British government and till independence was in the use of the agents of the British governor general for India as their summer headquarters.

The residency is embellished with beautiful lawns, covered with grassy carpets and with roses, dancing at the rhythmic tunes of wind, all around the garden. From there one can have a striking view of the picturesque valley.

The Gorges

Baluchistan is an arid land which receives very low rainfall annually. But innumerable natural springs known as 'Karez' and streams provide enough water for drinking and cultivation of fruits and crops in most o the areas. There are more than half a dozen gorges around Ziarat formed by natural 'Karez' - spring water falling through narrow openings amongst the mountain rocks producing a dramatic effect. The sound of waterfalls singing to the tune of solid rocks while passing through narrow gorges creates a mystic atmosphere. The famous gorges along the road to Ziarat are Chutair Tangi, Kahn Tangi, Kawas Tangi, Fern Tangi and Sandeman Tangi. One can approach easily to these gorges by diverting from the main road to have a picnic, adventure and fun.

Province Sindh

Karachi

 Karachi, the largest and the most populous city of Pakistan presents an interesting and colorful combination of the old and new. The narrow twisting lanes and alleys of the old city throb with life along-side the wide metal led roads and elegant modern buildings. Within the city, talented artisans with age-old skills produce handicrafts of exquisite beauty.

Karachi offers a variety of pleasant attractions: wide sunny beaches, deep-sea fishing, yachting, golf and horse racing all-year round. Its restaurants provide a wide choice of Pakistani and Western cuisine. Its markets and bazaar offer and endless variety of exciting shopping including indigenous handicrafts, rugs and carpets of rare design and beauty. Karachi's recorded history goes back to the 18th century when it was a small fishing village known as Karachi-jo-Goth. With the development of its harbor it gradually grew into a large city and an important centre of trade and industry.

Its selection as capital of Pakistan in 1947 added to its importance and tremendously boosted the rate of its growth and development. Although the seat of Government has now been shifted to Islamabad, Karachi still remains the epicenter of commerce and industry.

List of Medical Colleges / Universities in Karachi

- Aga Khan Medical College

- Aga Khan university

- Al-Khair University

- Allama Iqbal Medical College

- Baqai Medical University

- CAA Model School & College

- College of Physicians & Surgeons

- Dow Medical College

- Dow University of Health Sciences

- Fatima Jinnha Dentel College

- Jinnah Medical and Dental College

- Jinnah Post Graduate Medical Centre

- Karachi Medical and Dental College

- Sind Medical College

- Sindh Institute of Urology and Transplantation

- Ziauddin Medical University

Chaukundi

Located on the National Highway, 27 kms from Karachi, Chaukundi tombs comprise of innumerable sandstone graves with strangely-carved motifs, date back to 16th-18th centuries in Sindh. The Chaukundi Tombs are archaeologically interesting. The tombs are constructed out of slabs of rocks stacked into elongated pyramids of cubical stones and carved with exquisite designs, the origin of which remains a mystery.

Banbhore

About 64 kms (40 miles) east of Karachi is Banbhore, an archaeological site which some scholars identify with Debal, the port of city where the Arab General Mohammad Bin Qasim landed in 712 AD. This site is believed to be the port city of Daibul which flourished in 8th century AD. The museum at the site houses a rich collection of painted pottery, coins and beads etc. Banbhore is one of the Pakistan's old and most popular folk- stories Sassi-Pannu.

Haleji Lake

Situated 70 kms (about 52 miles) from Karachi. Haleji Lake is considered to be largest water fall sanctuary in Asia, and is the main reservoir for Karachi. Its 1-1/2 km off the Thatta road from the village of Gujjo. Thousands of birds of over seventy species migrate here in winter from Siberia and stay through January and February. The birds include flamingoes, pelicans, pheasant-tailed jacanas, herons, ducks, partridges and egrets. It is a paradise for those who love birds.

Thatta

Thatta, about 98 kms (61 miles) east of Karachi. At one time Thatta was important as Sind's capital city and as a centre for Islamic arts. From the 14th century four Muslim dynasties ruled Sindh from Thatta, but in 1739 the capital was moved elsewhere and Thatta declined. It was believed that this was the place where Alexander the Great rested his legions after their long march.

The town is dominated by the Great Mosque built by the Moghuls Emperor Shah Jehan which has been carefully restored to its original condition. The mosque's 33 arched domes give it superb acoustics and the tile work, a whole range of shades of blue, is equally fine. Situated on the outskirts of the new town it is surrounded by narrow lanes and multi-story houses made of plaster and wood which are top by badgers, the wind catchers designed to funnel cool breezes down into the interiors of buildings. They are also quite common in Hyderabad.

The bazaars of Thatta are known for hand-printed fabrics, glass bangles and Sindhe embroidery work in laid with tinny mirrors, one of the more world known handicrafts of Pakistan. Thatta is a fascinating town which appears to have scarcely moved out of the 18th century and is only slowly catching up with the modern world.

Hyderabad

Hyderabad, 164 km north of Karachi the second largest city in Sindh and one of the largest in Pakistan. Hyderabad is five km from the eastern bank of the Indus changed its course away from Khudabad, at that time the capital of the region, the new capital was shifted to Hyderabad. In 1766 the Kalhora ruler constructed a fort half a square km in area and it still stands today. In 1843 the British arrived and defeated the Talpurs, completing their conquest of Sindh.

In the old city, buildings are topped by badgers that look like chimneys on roof tops. They catch the cool breezes which blow steadily in a south-west direction for 40 days from late April each year. Hyderabad is hot for most of the year, although in autumn and winter the temperature dips down to around 24 C . In the old sections of the town, cows still roam the streets giving it a distinctly mediaeval atmosphere.

On the northern side of the hill on which Hyderabad is sited there are tombs from the Talpur and Kalhora periods. The tomb of Ghulam Shah Kalhora is one of the finest, although its dome collapsed and has now been replaced by a flat roof.

Also worth a visit is the Institute of Sindhology's museum at the University of Sindh. It has displays on all aspects of Sindhi history, music and culture depicting the lifestyles of the desert tribes. Infrequent GTS buses go to the campus, otherwise take a miniwagon to Jumshero, across the river from Hyderabad, and walk the 1-1/2 km to the university.

Kirthar National Park

This park may be visited for recreation education or research but shooting is forbidden. A four hour drive north- east from Karachi, of the Super Highway (for 4 WD vehicles only) takes the visitor deep into the heart of Kirthar National Park, again preserve measuring over 3,000 square kilometers in the Kirthar hills and a good destination for 3 day trip if the bandits are brought under control. October to February is the most comfortable...that is, coolest...time to go but the flowers bloom during the (relatively) wet monsoon in August.

Five furnished rest house with cooking facilities and running water are situated on the edge of a wide valley in the centre of the park at Karchat. They are book able through the Sindh Wildlife Management Board, which also hires out tents to those wish to camp. Some food is available if ordered well in advance, but it is better to take your own food, drink and bedding.

The rolling valleys and contorted, rugged lines of the Kirthar hills form a natural haven for Urial sheep, ibex and chinkara gazelle. Jungle cats, desert cats and even the occasional leopard or desert wolf also prowl the park, but you would be extreme lucky to see them. Pangolins (scaly anteaters), porcupines and monitor lizards are more in evidence.

Other attractions in the park are 18th century Chaukundi style tombs at Taung and pre-historic archaeological remains at Koh Tarash. The enormous Rani Kot Fort is also within the park, two hours by jeep from Karchat. Rani Kot is about four hours from Karachi via the Super Highway and Indus Highway.

Moenjodaro

At Moenjodaro (Mound of dead) in the west bank of the Indus in Sindh have been found the remains of one of the earliest and a most developed urban civilizations of the ancient world. Discovered in 1922 Moenjodaro once metropolis of great importance forming part of the Indus Valley Civilization. Moenjodaro 4,000 years old brick ruins of the Indus Valley Civilization city of Moenjodaro.

The Indus Valley Civilization flourished from 3,000 to 15,00 BC, making it contemporary with the ancient civilization of Egypt and Mesopotamia. At its height, it comprised at least 400 cities and towns along the Indus and its tributaries, covering most of the present-day Pakistan and stretching north-west as far as modern Kabul and east as far as modern Delhi. The water ways were the main highways connecting the empire, and flat bottomed barges almost identical to those still use today plied the rivers from city to city. Few of the cities have been excavated.

The most imposing remains are those of the great bath which consisted of an open quadrangle with verandahs on four sides, galleries and rooms at the back, a group of halls on the north and a large bathing pool. It was probably used for religious or ceremonial bathing. Nearby are the remains of the great granary, possible public treasury where taxes were paid in kind. Testifying to the high developed and artistic sensibility of the Moenjodaro people is discovery of necklaces pendants of beads ear rings and anklets of ivory and mother-of-pearl, vessels of silver, copper and browns and polished stones weights and measures which suggest the existence of strangest civic regulations.

From coins and poetries discovered, archaeologists believe trade and cultural links existed between Moenjodaro and the contemporary civilizations of Mesopotamia and Egypt. Various objects d'art found at Moenjodaro include burnt clay male and female figurines, and models of the bird, steatite bust of a noble man or a priest- king, wearing a loose robe on which the trefoil pattern is engraved and small dancing girls in the browns with slim figures and flat Negroid features. Figural art is best illustrated by steatite seals bearing life like representations of animals and mythological creates such as is the unicorn. The ruins of this Indus Valley Civilization face eminent danger from the rising water tables and salinity. Government of Pakistan in cooperation with UNESCO is making all possible efforts to avert this danger and save Moenjodaro.

Kot Diji

Kot Diji site is 25 kms (15 miles) south of Khairpur town in the Khairpur District of Sindh. Archaeologists say that the discovery of this pre-historic site has furnished information of high significance since it pushed back the pre-history of Pakistan by at least an other 300 years from about 2,500 BC to 2,800 BC. Evidence of new cultural element of pre-Harappan and pre-Moenjodaro date has been found at Kot Diji. The excavations there have proved that the Indus Valley Civilizations people borrowed or developed some of the basic cultural elements of the Kot Dijians. The site consists of two parts: one comprising the citadel area on the high ground where the ruling elite lived and outer area inhabited by the common man. The Kot Diji culture is marked by well- furnished well-made pottery and houses built of mud-bricks on stone foundations. In fact, the Kot Dijian ceramics through different in form and technique are no way less artistic then the sophisticated back-on-red pottery of Harappans.

The Harappans borrowed some of the basic cultural elements from Kot Diji. The Harappan decorated designs such as the "fish scale " intersecting circles and the pipal leaf pattern were evolved from the Kot Dijian decorated elements like the horizontal and wavy lines, loops and simple triangular patterns. There is a no proof yet of the place or the regions from where the Kot Dijians arrived in the Indus Valley. Kot Diji situated between Ranipur and Khairpur on the highway from Hyderabad, on the east bank of the Indus close to Rohri. Worth site trip.

Sukkur

North of Larkana the landscape becomes luxuriant, and in Sukkur the railway line and the highway split up, with a road and rail tracks leading north-west to Quetta via Sibi and Jacobabad, while another highway and railway line go via Rahimyar Khan and Sadiqabad straight to Multan. Sukkur is a sprawling town, with beautiful mosques, gardens, shrines and madrazhis (Muslim religious schools). A desert oasis town, similar to Jaisalmer in Rajasthan, it also boasts many havelis, however, unlike those of Jaisalmer, the Sukkur variety are decorated with geometric, floral designs and painted in a variety of bright, contrasting colors. Just across the Indus is Rohri, also fairly prosperous and an important rail and road junction.

The two towns, 5 km apart and 544 km north of Karachi are linked by the Landsdowne and Ayub bridges, which are extremely beautiful. There is a medieval mosque with porcelain-tiled walls, and eight km away are remains of the ancient city of Aror where Alexander the Great is said to have camped.